Reflections Of Ceylon

After breakfast, we leave the shores of the Negombo Lagoon and travel inland to Sigiriya, a journey of approximately four and a half hours. Along the way, the coastal landscape gradually gives way to coconut plantations, farming communities and the drier forests of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle.

We arrive at Kumbukgaha Villa and settle into our accommodation, surrounded by paddy fields and countryside. The small rural village of Sigiriya is best known for its monumental rock fortress, but it is also an excellent base for exploring the ancient cities, temples and traditional communities of the Cultural Triangle.

This afternoon, Dr Jenni Harris introduces The Art of Growing Older and sets the scene for the journey ahead. We learn more about the themes we will explore together and how the programme’s four modules will complement our experiences throughout Sri Lanka. There is also an opportunity to meet our fellow travellers and begin getting to know one another.

In the evening, we gather for a welcome dinner at the hotel. Served in an open-sided dining pavilion overlooking the paddy fields, our first meal together features fresh Sri Lankan cooking prepared with locally sourced produce and vegetables from the hotel’s organic garden.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Kumbukgaha Villa, Sigiriya

Settle in for four nights at Kumbukgaha Villa, a secluded boutique property surrounded by paddy fields and rural countryside near Sigiriya. Its individual villas and open pavilions draw on traditional Sri Lankan architecture, with handcrafted teak furniture, batik textiles and Asian antiques throughout. Peacocks and civet cats are among the wildlife found in the surrounding area, while the open dining pavilion provides an inviting setting for freshly prepared Sri Lankan meals.

After breakfast, we begin the first module of The Art of Growing Older, guided by Dr Jenni Harris.

Module One - Taking Stock: Where Am I Now?

We pause to consider where we are in our lives and how we feel about growing older. Through reflection and creative enquiry, we revisit significant experiences and recurring themes from our life stories, recognising the insight and wisdom gathered along the way. We consider the dreams we have carried with us, the unfinished business that may remain and the possibilities still waiting to unfold.

“In many ways, a life review is not so much a contemplation only of events gone by as it is an inventory of residual feelings.” - Stephen Levine, A Year to Live

Following the morning session, there is time for lunch and a rest before we set out in the cooler late-afternoon hours to climb Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Rising dramatically above the plains of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle, this UNESCO World Heritage-listed citadel is one of the country’s most important archaeological sites.

Built during the reign of King Kashyapa in the fifth century, Sigiriya served as both a royal palace and a formidable fortress. We begin among the carefully planned Water Gardens before ascending past ancient frescoes and the polished Mirror Wall. At the Lion Stairway, we pass between the enormous stone paws that once formed the entrance to a monumental lion-shaped gateway.

Those who continue to the summit are rewarded with far-reaching views across forests, lakes and farmland. We explore the remains of the king’s palace, bathing pools and defensive structures before making our way back down the rock.

We return to Kumbukgaha Villa in the evening, where dinner is served in the open-sided dining pavilion overlooking the surrounding paddy fields.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Kumbukgaha Villa, Sigiriya

Spend a second night at Kumbukgaha Villa, surrounded by paddy fields and rural countryside near Sigiriya. Its small collection of villas, open pavilions and tropical gardens provides a comfortable setting in which to continue our group work and reflect on the day’s experiences.

After breakfast, we continue with the second session of Module One of The Art of Growing Older. Building on the previous day’s reflections, we explore the experiences and themes that have shaped our lives, the wisdom we have gathered and the feelings we continue to carry with us.

There is time for lunch before we travel to Anuradhapura, one of Sri Lanka’s ancient capitals and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as the City of Kings, Anuradhapura was an important centre of political power and Buddhist culture for more than 1,000 years. Its archaeological remains extend across a vast area, encompassing monasteries, palaces, reservoirs, temples and monumental stupas.

During our guided exploration, we visit Ruwanwelisaya, the enormous white stupa pictured above. Commissioned by King Dutugemunu in the second century BC, it remains one of Sri Lanka’s most revered Buddhist monuments and an active place of worship. Pilgrims dressed in white gather around its broad courtyard to make offerings, light lamps and walk clockwise around the dome.

We also visit the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi in the Mahamewna Gardens. According to Buddhist tradition, the sacred fig tree was grown from a branch of the Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya in India, beneath which the Buddha attained enlightenment. Brought to Sri Lanka in the third century BC by the Buddhist nun Sanghamitta, it has remained a place of pilgrimage for more than 2,000 years.

As we explore the ancient city, we see how Anuradhapura remains both an important archaeological site and a living centre of Buddhist devotion. We return to Kumbukgaha Villa in the evening, where dinner is served.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Kumbukgaha Villa, Sigiriya

Spend a third night at Kumbukgaha Villa, returning to its rural setting after an afternoon among the ancient monuments and sacred sites of Anuradhapura.

After breakfast, we begin the second module of The Art of Growing Older, guided by Dr Jenni Harris.

Module Two - What Really Matters?

Rather than avoiding the reality of mortality, we use it as a lens through which to examine how we are living. Imagining ourselves looking back from the end of life can help reveal what matters most, what we may regret, what remains unfinished and what we still long to experience or contribute. Through reflection and conversation, we consider how this awareness might help us make more conscious choices about the way we live now.

“We are invited into a conversation with death, in which we are asked to look directly at the way we are living.” - Francis Weller, The Wild Edge of Sorrow

After lunch, we travel to nearby Habarana for a guided tuk tuk tour through the surrounding villages. Following narrow roads through farmland and small rural communities, we keep watch for local birdlife with the help of a guide whose knowledge comes from living and working in the area.

Along the way, we learn about everyday life in rural Sri Lanka and visit small cottage industries such as traditional herbal oil production and brickmaking. Depending on the season, there may also be an opportunity to sample freshly fried lake fish, a local speciality.

Our experience concludes at the home of Rani, a local resident who welcomes us with a selection of Sri Lankan dishes prepared using regional ingredients. We then return to Kumbukgaha Villa, where we gather for dinner on our final evening in Sigiriya.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Kumbukgaha Villa, Sigiriya

Spend a fourth and final night at Kumbukgaha Villa, enjoying the rural setting and open-air pavilions before continuing south towards Sri Lanka’s central hills tomorrow.

After breakfast, we complete the second session of Module Two of The Art of Growing Older. Continuing our exploration of what matters most, we consider what needs our attention, what may remain unfinished and how we might live more consciously in the years ahead.

We then leave Sigiriya and begin the approximately four-hour journey to Digana, travelling deeper into Sri Lanka’s Central Province. This mountainous region in the centre of the country is known for its cooler climate, tea plantations and important cultural landmarks.

Along the way, we stop at Dambulla Cave Temple for a guided visit. Also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla, this UNESCO World Heritage-listed complex is the largest and best-preserved cave temple site in Sri Lanka. Reached by climbing a series of stone steps, its five main caves contain more than 150 statues of the Buddha, alongside images of Sri Lankan kings, Hindu deities and Buddhist figures.

Inside the dimly lit caves, extensive murals cover the walls and ceilings, depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha, moments of temptation and important events in Sri Lanka’s Buddhist history. Developed and embellished by successive rulers over many centuries, the complex remains an active place of worship and is often an unexpected highlight of a journey through the Cultural Triangle.

We continue through the increasingly mountainous landscape of the Central Province and arrive at Rukgala Retreat near Digana. Set beside the Victoria Reservoir and surrounded by forest and distant peaks, the intimate retreat provides a restorative setting for the next stage of our journey. After checking in, there is time to settle into our surroundings before dinner.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Rukgala Retreat, Digana

Settle in for three nights at Rukgala Retreat, a small boutique wellness retreat overlooking the Victoria Reservoir in Sri Lanka’s Central Province. With an outdoor swimming pool, yoga and wellness spaces, guided walks, paddleboarding and wholesome meals, it offers a comfortable base among the forests and mountains near Digana.

After breakfast, we begin the third module of The Art of Growing Older, guided by Dr Jenni Harris.

Module Three - Opening the Door: Possibility and New Growth

We consider what might become possible when we loosen our attachment to old roles, expectations and established ways of seeing ourselves. Through reflection and creative enquiry, we explore how we might reinvent aspects of our lives, reconnect with purpose and allow new forms of creativity, meaning and fulfilment to emerge.

“What matters now is that you live this life by the best lights you have, by what really matters to you.” - James Hillman

There is time to rest and enjoy the facilities at Rukgala Retreat before we depart in the afternoon for the Three Temple Loop near Pilimathalawa. Set among villages, paddy fields and rolling hills outside Kandy, the route introduces us to three important examples of architecture and craftsmanship from Sri Lanka’s medieval Gampola period.

We visit Embekka Dewalaya, best known for the intricate carvings that decorate its wooden pillars and beams. Created by generations of skilled craftspeople, the carvings depict dancers, musicians, wrestlers, animals and mythical figures, offering a detailed record of the artistry and everyday life of the period.

We continue to Lankathilaka Temple, built on a natural rock outcrop overlooking the surrounding hills and farmland. Its imposing white structure combines Buddhist and Hindu architectural influences, reflecting the religious traditions that shaped the region during the fourteenth century.

Our final stop is Gadaladeniya Temple, distinguished by its stone construction and South Indian-inspired design. Together, the three temples provide an insight into Sri Lanka’s medieval history, Buddhist heritage and longstanding traditions of wood and stone craftsmanship.

We return to Rukgala Retreat in the evening, where dinner is served.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Rukgala Retreat, Digana

Spend a second night at Rukgala Retreat beside the Victoria Reservoir, with time between the programme and afternoon excursion to enjoy its forested setting and mountain views.

After breakfast, we complete the second session of Module Three of The Art of Growing Older. Building on the previous day’s work, we continue exploring the possibilities that can emerge when we loosen our attachment to established roles and expectations. We consider how creativity, purpose and new ways of thinking might shape the next chapter of our lives.

Later in the afternoon, we make the approximately 45-minute drive to Kandy, the last capital of Sri Lanka’s independent kings and the cultural heart of the Central Province. Here, we meet our local host, Donald, for Candid Kandy, an insider’s walking tour through the city’s historic streets.

As we explore hidden lanes, heritage buildings and busy local neighbourhoods, Donald shares stories of Kandy’s transformation from a powerful independent kingdom to a city shaped by colonial rule. His local anecdotes offer an insight into the region’s closely held customs, cultural identity and continuing importance within Sri Lankan life. Along the way, we stop at several established local eateries to sample traditional snacks and sweets.

We then visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, located within Kandy’s former royal palace complex. Also known as Sri Dalada Maligawa, the temple is one of the most revered Buddhist sites in Sri Lanka and forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Sacred City of Kandy. It is believed to house a tooth relic of the Buddha, kept within a closely guarded inner shrine.

The sacred relic is honoured during the daily thevava ceremonies, when offerings are accompanied by traditional drumming. Monks, pilgrims and local devotees gather with lotus and jasmine flowers, while the scent of incense fills the temple’s richly decorated chambers. Although the relic itself remains concealed within a series of golden caskets, the ceremony provides an opportunity to witness the devotion surrounding it.

Following our visit, we make the approximately 45-minute return journey to Rukgala Retreat, where dinner is served on our final evening in Digana.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Rukgala Retreat, Digana

Spend a third and final night at Rukgala Retreat beside the Victoria Reservoir, returning to its forested setting after an afternoon exploring the streets and sacred sites of Kandy.

After breakfast, we leave Rukgala Retreat and begin the six-hour journey from Sri Lanka’s mountainous Central Province to Habaraduwa on the southern coast. It is one of the longer travel days of our journey, with comfort stops made along the way.

As we descend from the central hills, the landscape changes considerably. Forested mountains and tea-growing country gradually give way to lowland towns, rice fields and plantations of coconut, rubber and cinnamon. Approaching the coast, the air becomes warmer and more tropical, with glimpses of the Indian Ocean signalling our arrival in Sri Lanka’s Southern Province.

Habaraduwa is a small coastal community east of the historic city of Galle. The surrounding region is known for its beaches, coconut groves, wetlands and cinnamon-growing countryside, offering a marked contrast to the ancient cities and mountains explored during the first half of our journey. It also provides a convenient base for visiting Galle Fort, the villages around Talpe and the gardens of Bentota over the coming days.

Upon arrival, we check into Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, set on a forested hill with views across the jungle towards the Indian Ocean. The property’s name comes from the Latin expression tabula rasa, meaning “blank slate” and suggesting the possibility of a new beginning - a fitting idea as we approach the final stage of The Art of Growing Older.

Designed in the style of a small hillside village, the resort’s rooms and villas are spread among coconut palms and tropical gardens. Its elevated position provides views across the surrounding greenery, with the ocean visible in the distance.

The remainder of the day is at leisure following the journey. We may relax beside the swimming pool, book a spa treatment or settle into our room before gathering for dinner at the resort.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, Habaraduwa

Settle in for four nights at Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, a hilltop retreat surrounded by coconut palms near Sri Lanka’s southern coast. Its rooms and villas are arranged throughout the tropical grounds, with swimming pools, spa facilities and views across the jungle towards the Indian Ocean.

After breakfast, we begin the fourth and final module of The Art of Growing Older, guided by Dr Jenni Harris.

Module Four - The Way Forward: Living What We Know

We bring together what we have discovered during the journey and ask two central questions: what do I know now, and what do I want to do with what I know? Through reflection and conversation, we consider what is important to us now, what needs our attention and the direction we would like our lives to take.

We also begin identifying the small or significant steps that might help us move towards that direction. Rather than prescribing how we should age, the module invites us to consider how we might live the next chapter more consciously, drawing on the wisdom, freedom and possibilities that can accompany growing older.

“There are moments in life when we are reminded that we are unfinished. To begin anything new is to cast upon yourself a spell against stagnation.” - John O’Donohue, Beginnings

Following the morning session, there is time to relax at the resort before we travel to nearby Talpe in the late afternoon for a Sri Lankan cooking experience with Dinesha and her family.

Dinesha welcomes us into her semi-open kitchen, set within a tropical garden in the Galle countryside. Her love of cooking was inherited from her mother, and the recipes shared during the class draw on the flavours and techniques used in her own family kitchen.

Our experience begins with a visit to a local market, where we learn about the vegetables, spices and other ingredients commonly used in Sri Lankan cooking. Back at Dinesha’s home, we gather herbs and spices from the garden before preparing a selection of traditional dishes together. We learn how spices are combined, how fresh coconut is used and how several curries and accompaniments are prepared to be served as one complete meal.

Once the cooking is finished, we sit down with our hosts to enjoy the homemade dinner we have prepared. Sharing food and conversation with Dinesha’s family provides a personal introduction to Sri Lankan home cooking before we return to Habaraduwa for the evening.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, Habaraduwa

Spend a second night at Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, returning to its hilltop setting after an evening of cooking, conversation and home-prepared Sri Lankan food in nearby Talpe.

After breakfast, we complete the second session of Module Four and bring The Art of Growing Older programme to a close.

Drawing together the themes explored throughout the four modules, we reflect on what we have learned about ourselves, what matters most and what we want to carry forward. We consider the direction we would like our lives to take and identify practical steps that may help us live with greater intention, presence and possibility. The programme concludes not with a prescription for how to age, but with an invitation to approach the next chapter consciously and in a way that reflects what we now know.

Following the morning session, there is time for lunch before we make the approximately 30-minute drive to Galle in the afternoon for a guided walking tour of its historic fort.

First established by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century and extensively fortified by the Dutch during the seventeenth century, Galle Fort later passed into British hands. Its walls, bastions and grid of narrow streets remain remarkably intact, earning the old town and its fortifications UNESCO World Heritage status.

As we walk along the ramparts and through the streets within the fort, our guide explains how successive periods of Portuguese, Dutch and British rule shaped its architecture and community. We pass the lighthouse, churches, administrative buildings and colonial-era residences that record the fort’s long maritime history.

The walk also takes us beyond Galle Fort’s restored hotels and boutiques to consider the people who continue to live, work, worship and attend school within its walls. Historic homes stand alongside cafés, mosques, churches and small businesses, revealing a neighbourhood that remains part of everyday life rather than simply a preserved monument.

Following the tour, we make the approximately 30-minute return journey to Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, where dinner is served this evening.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, Habaraduwa

Spend a third night at Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, returning to its hilltop setting after completing our programme and exploring the layered history of nearby Galle Fort.

After breakfast, we travel approximately 1.5 hours north along Sri Lanka’s southern coast to Bentota for a day exploring the neighbouring estates of brothers Geoffrey and Bevis Bawa. Although both properties began as rubber plantations, each was transformed over several decades into a highly personal expression of its owner’s approach to architecture, art and landscape design.

Our first visit is Lunuganga, the former country home of Geoffrey Bawa, one of Sri Lanka’s most influential architects and a leading figure in tropical modernism. Bawa purchased the estate in 1947 and spent almost 50 years reshaping its approximately six hectares of gardens, buildings and woodland.

Working gradually and intuitively, he moved earth, cut terraces, replanted forest and opened carefully framed views across lawns, water and the surrounding countryside. Frangipani trees, palms and banyans stand among courtyards, pavilions, sculptures and garden rooms, with each space designed to reveal a different relationship between the built and natural environments.

During our guided walk, we explore the estate’s gardens and buildings while learning how Lunuganga served as both Bawa’s home and an ongoing architectural experiment. Its pathways, sightlines and changes in elevation demonstrate the ideas that later influenced many of his best-known hotels, houses and public buildings across Sri Lanka.

We then continue to Brief Garden, the former home and garden of Geoffrey’s older brother, Bevis Bawa. Work on the original rubber plantation began in 1929, with Bevis gradually transforming the two-hectare property into a series of densely planted pathways, courtyards, lawns and garden rooms.

Bevis was a landscape designer, artist, sculptor and writer, and his bungalow remains filled with furniture, murals and artworks collected or created by him and his circle of friends. These include works by Australian artist Donald Friend, who lived at Brief for almost six years. As we explore the house and gardens, we see a more theatrical and intimate approach to landscape design than at Lunuganga, reflecting Bevis Bawa’s distinctive personality and artistic interests.

After our visits, we make the return journey to Habaraduwa. There is time to freshen up before we gather for a farewell dinner on our final evening together. Over dinner, we share reflections on our journey through Sri Lanka, the experiences we have shared and the ideas explored during The Art of Growing Older.

🥘 Breakfast, Dinner
🛏️ Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, Habaraduwa

Spend a fourth and final night at Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa, concluding our time together among the coconut palms and coastal landscapes of southern Sri Lanka.

After breakfast, there is time to pack and prepare for our departure before checking out of Tabula Rasa Resort & Spa.

At the appropriate time, we begin the approximately 2.5 hour transfer to Bandaranaike International Airport via the Southern Expressway. As we leave Sri Lanka’s southern coast behind, we reflect on a journey that has taken us through ancient cities, mountain landscapes, rural communities and the historic streets of Galle.

Our time together may be ending, but the reflections, conversations and discoveries made during The Art of Growing Older offer something to carry into the next chapter. We arrive at the airport with sufficient time to complete check-in and departure formalities before saying our farewells.

If you would like to extend your time in Sri Lanka, please let us know. We would be pleased to help arrange additional accommodation, private touring or a tailor made extension elsewhere on the island. Safe travels!

🥘 Breakfast